11:20 am. We repark the car closer downtown, again off St.
There have been a few changes since this map was published. The Restaurant and Interpretive Centres have been switched and new gardens planted with local species are being developed near the dyke lands.
The grand parade is empty!
Headed west toward the innovative and rose gardens.
In the former location, black tomatoes.
And a creature from a horror movie.
Nearby, The Black Lagoon.
That arbour marks the entryway to their rose garden, their first effort when this was a pioneer project.
Leaving that place we took the perimeter path to the southwest.
This ends at an elevated boardwalk over elephant grass. Authentic survivals of Acadian dykes are seen in the background.
Nova Scotia is a bit beyond the range of the eastern grey squirrel but breeding colonies are found here, whether introduced or a natural extension of range caused by changes in natural habitat is unknown. A tree squirrel in the genus Sciurus it is "the most prodigious and ecologically essential natural forest regenerator."
Overlooking the dykeland is this reconstruction of an early Acadian homestead.
Ruth examines the plants still in the ground in the vegetable and herb garden.
Just inside the back door, sabots.
Here is a look at the interior of this one room house. Sleeping quarters are in a loft reached by ladder. That backening of fireplace stones suggests some sort of robust fire.
And, we find that the chimney is being rebuilt, perhaps with a little less attention being given to absolute authenticity this time.
Grasses are nice in every season.
Here is that floral salute to Canada's 150th birthday.
On to the heather garden.
Near the perennial garden, benches invite walkers to sit and stare. We stop for coffee at the restaurant. Two other customers arrive while we are there.
The interpretive centre is not overpowering.
That plastic enshrouded table houses a clever miniature landscape.
This portrayal of an Acadian settlement goes beyond that lone sheiling.
Exit the so called "Knot Garden."
...for the over-the-top "Victorian Garden."
All these brought-from-away species are larger-than-life, in
one way or another.
See what we mean?
"Don't think we will be growing these at the condo."
Enclosure in the "Governor's Garden."
This arbour leads back to the main courtyard.
Our Barcelona Red seen from that courtyard.
A fe plants were offered for sale in the "Innovative Garden" and Ruth returned there to pick up a $2 Newfoundland Violet.
Just before noon: One final tour of the downtown. The fog had vanished and the weather turned warm and a bit windy.
Thank heaven for one-way streets. This portion of St. George Street was never meant for automobiles.
Ruth draws attention to some feature across the Annapolis Harbour in Granville Ferry (which now has a causeway).
This unrushed visit created a lot of smiles.
On the road again this time headed for Digby.
This old map helps to position things geographically and in terms of history. What is now Digby was at first seen as a part of the Conway settlement. It grew exponentially after the American Revolutionary War.
Frenchy's parking lot on the outskirts. Not much luck in any stores thus branded!
Digby is a working-class town, but the administrative centre and largest town in the county with a population of just over 2,000. That makes it equal in size to Mahone Bay and about four times more populous than Annapolis Royal. Named after Admiral Robert Digby, RN, the town is famous for its scallop fishing fleet (part of which is seen above) and the ferry service connecting to Saint John, New Brunswick.
The town is reminiscent of my hometown of St. Stephen, New Brunswick, a rough and tumble kind of place, but it has had better luck preserving it retail sector. Like my hometown it has a median income quite a bit below average for the province. At $28,551, that's well below Annapolis Royal.
And the downtown core is a more active place in terms of restaurants, entertainment, and places of accommodation. That's unless there has been recent change on the border.
Digby is situated near the deepest part of the Annapolis Basin. Being early for a check-in at our next port-of-call we made a sweep of the main street from east to west. For the first time noticed signage for a side street fish market and the fact that the Digby Pines Resort is visible at a point where the road veers suddenly to the left.
Another view at the turn. Tourism played an important role in Digby during the 20th century beginning with the establishment of railway and steamship links that opened the town and surrounding communities as an-easy-to-reach destination from large urban centres in eastern North America. A landmark in this industry was the construction of the Digby Pines Resort on the town's outskirts in 1905. It was purchased in 1917 by the Dominion Atlantic Railway, and expanded in size in 1927. When that railway sold its hotels, the Nova Scotian government bought the complex to prevent a loss of employment.
Having made another sharp left turn we are now on the highway leading past the Pines. Digby is now seen in the middle distance.
Look at that sky and note fog over the Bay of Fundy in the far distance. The Kelly Cove Salmon farming operation seen here is is a division of Cooke Aquaculture. It seems that big fish farming like big agribusiness is here to stay, but
according to Climate Change Nova Scotia, warmer water temperatures may mean more parasites and competitors menacing salmon as well as cod, and capelin. Increased sediment in precipitation runoff may also threaten all commercial fish stocks including lobster and crab.
Bay Ferries' MV Rose makes two landings and departures at the "Digby" terminal seen here until October 15. But we were too late for the morning landing and too early to see her afternoon arrival.
This is Digby Gut the only opening of the Annapolis Basin on the Bay of Fundy. MV Fundy Rose is a RORO passenger ship owned by the Government of Canada, which entered service with Bay Ferries in 2015 between Saint John, New Brunswick, and Digby, Nova Scotia, replacing the MV Princess of Acadia. Interestingly, it was built by Daewoo Shipbuilding and Marine Engineering based in South Korea, and launched as Blue Star Ithaki under the Greek flag in 1999. That company is infamous in Pictou County for its failure to create a wind turbine industry in the Trenton Works when it went belly up.
Enough gloom and doom, this is a sunshine story, and it was a glorious day. This retraces the route back into Digby.
The last time we visited Digby we were on a day trip to observe the antics of the Wharf Rat Rally,held the weekend of Labour Day in August/September each year. Since 2004, Digby has become the destination of the largest motorcycle rally in Atlantic Canada, the annual Wharf Rat Rally. It attracts as many as 50,000 people and 25,000 motorcycles. "So many that schools and some roads have to close for the day due to crowds and motorcycle traffic." It has a permanent headquarters on the main drag where we were booked to stay. This pub which opened August 29 of the current year, is now open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., seven days a week. When I took this snap it was too early in the day for beer.
In terms of retail trade the main street was unassuming. We had yet to locate the Dockside Suites where we were to stay, so as 3 pm crept up, we made a concentrated effort to locate it. On line advertising promised, "no reservation costs and great rates" It was supposedly at 34 Water Street but the Google map showed them as situated on the water side of "Montague Row," which did not seem to exist in the real world. We spotted the Wharf Rat Rally Motorcycle Association building a block and a half away on the other side of Water Street, and then noticed this sign for the Dockside outfit. That dockside shack did not look promising and where was "off street parking?"
This "Fish Shack turned out to be a bike and kayak storage place. These amenities were offered for rent.
A walk around the waterfront boardwalk revealed a second sign clearly identifying our overnight residence."Boasting a waterfront location, this Digby property offers an on-site bar and restaurant. A kitchen or kitchenette feature in all rooms." In point of fact only two suites had a harbour view, and ours was one of these. "All 12 apartments offer free WiFi, flat-screen TVs, and free local calls. Other amenities available to guests include hair dryers, ironing boards, and desks."
Expedia describes this as the "Fundy Complex Dockside Suites." There is a dance hall in there somewhere, and two restaurants. This shot was from the boardwalk near the town cenotaph looking eastward. We figured there had to be a Water Street entry.
Looking out on the harbour from this location.
This facade, created recently, identifies a club and a restaurant but not the suites which are on the second and third floors above another restaurant in the left hand building. A single door provides entry. On the door, a notice was posted explaining that check in after 3 pm was in the restaurant. In that location and accommodating employee, explained that our booking had been upgraded without extra charge and escorted us to the suite.
After settling in, I took this first snapshot through the upper floor window.
Looking back to the "ground floor."
Post-modern chrome, dark brown and white interior. Glass-topped furniture to protect against liquor spills.
A very different interior decoration style when contrasted with Hillsdale?
That public wharf at high tide. The Bay of Fundy has the highest tides in the world, but at the head of waters not at this location. At this time of year the range could vary between about 24 and 26 feet of difference between high and low tides.
The other half of that long wharf.
This had morphed into a very pleasant afternoon and this was a view looking downward toward the outdoor restaurant deck.
The kitchen had nice modern utilities but few cooking utensils, but we had decided not to do-it-yourself.
Hung around down here long enough to read the Chronicle Herald.
Did not make much use of either of the two television sets. Ruth checked weather forecasts on her portable computer.
From the stairway. Too early for fancy dining.
That's more like it!
A few brave souls were still on the outdoor deck but we consumed a huge seafood meal and a salad in the indoor portion of that deck.
An hour or so later that deck was completely cleared of patrons.
That last shot was taken from the lower of two balconies serving the suite. This one revealed that a few patrons were still braving cooler temperatures.
It wasn't that bad or we would not having been sitting out to watch the tide turn and the light fade.
A few minutes later a returning scallop dragger rounded the wharf.
And tied up at a protected berth.
The following morning we decided that we were not yet hungry for breakfast and could think of no compelling reason to remain in town, and so departed from the parking lot across the street at 8 am.
Day 3: There were no plans beyond hitting the road.
This is where big bucks pass hands in feeding Nova Scotians.
Again, the weather forecast seemed iffy!
Talk about sunshine and shadow? From this point on we took to the back roads, so that Ruth could have a look at the homes she lived in when her family emigrated from England decades ago. She had been fourteen when her dad contracted to teach in Kings County.
When I tried to get a photo of her most remote homestead between the Dempsey Road and Aylesford, the camera balked but recovered enabling this shot showing leaving in their fall colours on the road to Kingston and environs, where her mum and dad were largely domiciled during his teaching career.
On the Evangeline Trail big farms became the rule. Those seen earlier were modest in acreage.
Crops seemed very specialized.
This was Kingston where her family owned a couple of homes. One has to appreciate those wide roads and slight traffic after Mahone Bay. This is the centre of things, the first road right at the traffic lights leading directly to Greenwood Air Base, where Ruth had friends.
She wanted to see if she could relocate the mall where she used to hang out as a teen, so we took that right turn, and shortly...
encountered the gatehouse at the base. She used to go to the indoor pool on base to swim with friends.
We did not enter, but turned in at Aviation Museum, which had not existed in he days here.
That's pretty much this story except we did look for the mall and found it completely renovated. We ate a late breakfast in a restaurant there but the retail stores were not open as it was Sunday. We then returned to the highway through Kingston.
Near the intersection, I photographed the first home in which this family of four lived for a year.
One close friend lived nearby.
The batteries appeared to have collapsed shortly after this, and pictures taken afterwards did not materialize. I had no spares. We went to New Minas that afternoon to get a fresh charged NiMH set, but they did not function. Then the message "Card Is Full" and not "Change Batteries" was the attention seeker. With temperatures rising into the mid twenties, we took the shortest route home through New Ross, and arrived in bright sunshine with more modest temperatures. A perfect ending for another almost perfect day.