Frankly, having had some bad health run-ins with birds in the past, it was difficult to throw off feelings of foreboding. Had we been on the "poop deck" of a ship, rather than that of a restaurant, we would have been sheltered from sea-bird droppings. We followed that yellow brick road west to Shelburne and retraced it for the most part, having by-passed an intention to wade in the waters at nearby Lockeport. The #103 was overheated by the time we reached Liverpool, so we detoured (blue-green loop) to the Lunenburg County coast as seen as we were in the bounds.
We always tour the oldest part of Liverpool when we pass that way. Facing Liverpool Harbour is the Fort Point Lighthouse, the third oldest in Nova Scotia. It contains a lighthouse museum and is surrounded by a public park.In late June each year, history comes alive in Liverpool during "Privateer Days" when over a long weekend reenact ors sometimes encamp at this location.
With a population of 2,635, Liverpool is somewhat larger than either Lunenburg or Shelburne. Liverpool's largest employer was once the Bowater Mersey Paper Company Limited, which operated a pulp mill and newsprint mill situated in nearby Brooklyn. That mill closed in June 2012 and the population has decreased since that time.
In 1996, Liverpool disincorporated as a town and merged with the Municipality of the County of Queens to form the Region of Queens Municipality. Like Shelburne and Lunenburg, Liverpool has seen a shrinking property tax base, with properties tending to sell below assessment values. This building, formerly a colonial tavern, recently changed hands.
Until three years ago, this small place was channeling very good wages from the pulp and paper plant and so the general state of real properties is much better than that in Shelburne.
Although a warm day, this street was shaded.
In spite of its seaside location on the Atlantic Ocean; Liverpool is somewhat land-locked and has a relatively mild humid continental climate typical of most of the province. Prevailing inland winds result in large temperature differences between the warm summers averaging around 25 °C (77 °F) and generally cold winter night time temperatures approaching −10 °C (14 °F) on average.
The residential street leading from Fort Point merges with this old town business district, now largely the site of service rather than retail businesses. Modern franchises are all clustered on the far side of the Mersey River, accessed to the right of the stop sign. Small shops on this main drag fail with alarming regularity.
This former garage and service station building has been vacant for years.The paper company founded its own shipping line, the Markland Shipping Company based in Liverpool. World War II bolstered the economy when the town's shipyard, Thompson Bros. Machinery Co. Ltd., became a major refitter for the Royal Canadian Navy . Commercial and recreational fishing play a role in the local economy but marine interests are no longer as pronounced.
Since it is the largest population centre in Queens County, there is a diverse business community consisting of large business franchises all located north of the bridge at this four-cornered intersection.
With most supermarket plant nurseries closed for the season, there was a sell-off of soil. I waited in the she while Ruth purchased a few bags.
Here she goes to retrieve the vehicle so I can load the trunk. There are some big boys in our part of Nova Scotia.
We were now back in Lunenburg County and the air temperature was very high. For some odd reason Lunenburg and Mahone Bay close their standard liquor outlets on Sundays in all but the tourist months. In that case this is where locals go who live back of beyond. The Bridgewater Liquor Store and the Rose Bay General Store are a 12-minute drive from home.
Why liquor franchises are sparse is a mystery.
Here a peek at Voglers Cove.
Fog, fog, moderating fog...
Areas which are peninsular suffer less from humid conditions and there is usually a stiff breeze.
A supplementary question is why so many people choose to live away from the water.
A classic Lunenburg glacial hill.
We were travelling eastward toward the mouth of the La Have River.
It is probably the winter weather which has kept these villages from being thoroughly developed as summer cottage country. That, and the fact that Rissers and another major public beach is located along this road.
Those beaches are bit further east. Here the countryside remains relatively untouched.
The original bridge was taken out years ago and replaced by a one-laner.
This is Petite-Riviere which does have a liquor outlet and post office located here.
We had purchased lunch material at Liverpool and paused across the way to eat and drink.
Gas is also available here and mixer for rum and coke. That large restaurant at right failed several years ago.
For the record, this is that "Little River."
Here is a quick look through the trees at one of those public beaches. We never go near any of these places in season.
At this location, sunbathing would not have been an option. In fact, the air temperature was disagreeably low.
For a time this area was the centre of Acadian settlement in old Nova Scotia, and some families of this descent still live here at the mouth of the La Have River.
Housing can have a touch of Second Empire flair. In this instance notice the Art Deco add-on! Remarkable.
I believe this it within the La Have area and that is the river.
Picturesque in a lonely way.
First settled in 1632, La Have was an important centre for the Mi'kmaq people, who traded with Europeans. It was formerly the economic centre of fishing, trade and shipbuilding for the area. A volunteer LaHave and District Fire Department, a federal post office, Saint James Anglican Church and LaHave Seafoods are all located in in this small community.
A turn of the 20th century riverside chandlery landmark, become the LaHave Bakery at the middle of that century. It operates as a year-round bakery and cafe. The building also houses a Craft Co-Op during the summer, where local artists sell their crafts. A boat builder is also resident and there is a small associated marina.
Since the late 19th century, LaHave proper has been connected to East LaHave, on the opposite side of the LaHave river, via a cable ferry. This is now a 14 car ferry operated by The Province of Nova Scotia and costs $7.00 for a one-way ticket. The trip lasts about five minutes one way. The wait time can be up to 20-minutes when the ferry is docked on the opposite bank. We decided to drive on to Bridgewater.
As you can see the La Have River is broad in the lower reaches.
Scenes like this are commonplace.
The community of Pleasantville is about 25 miles distant from Petite Riviera, and a visit to the plant nursery there is a right of passage. As Lunenburg has a large rural population and a lot of woodland...
The perennial nursery stock peaked on this August 18, 2015.
The annual greenhouses were stripped bare.
There were bargains to be had on one-year stock.
And Ruth never departs empty-handed.
Nevertheless, the season for planting was winding down, although a final sale was scheduled for September 5.
We thought to approached home by the Bridgewater crossing, but heat drove us back to the ferry crossing where we were not far back in line.
A shot from the car window.
Not much of a wait!
And we are aboard. While the ferry is expensive for a one-time usual, a punch card lowers the crossing fee considerably for local users.
We loop back out to the coast and take the road home through Rose Bay. Turns out it never did get that warm at First South.
Home again with a better appreciate of our excellent local eating facilities and sources of free entertainment thanks to those visitors, who have brought a 21% increase in revenues to people in the tourist industry.
Point is, Old Town Lunenburg only belongs to visitors and tourists for a short few months.