Actually Friday was May 15 was Ruth's cutoff day for on-line work and we gassed up in Lunenburg the following morning, Saturday, May 16. We had made prior overnight reservations to stay in Annapolis Royal across the narrow part of Nova Scotia on the Fundy shore a one-and-a-half to two hour drive. We managed to get away by 10 am a bit later than intended as Ruth had to help this visitor.

We were never quite sure that that cute little fellow understood our directions for reaching the Bay of Fundy. At this point he seemed to be trailing smoke and we did not see him again!

This place immediately north of Bridgewater is new to the region.

New Germany, Lunenburg County is a working class village surrounded by true wilderness. A rather nice place.

We have few needs for furniture or knick-knacks but have purchased goods here.

New Germany ends a little beyond this steel bridge, which is being replaced by a new concrete structure at left.

The next curve in the road veers northward (right) toward Caledonia.

Still, a lot of private businesses make this a holiday since roads can be congested. We are now in Caledonia.

The next community to the north is Harmony Mills, in Nova Scotia's deep woods area.

And the forest industry here is closed for the day. There is no public transport here.

Where a cottage is not part of summer : Kejimkujik National Park (often called Keji for short) will perhaps be your destination. This is the turn off.


That oil tanker in the distance did not turn off so we pulled in at this long established  food store (right) and eatery (left) complex.  Along this road there are no competitors north of Caledonia.


A few years ago this was a business devoted to a literary theme:  The Tent Dwellers is a book by Albert Bigelow Paine, chronicling his travels through inland Nova Scotia on a trout fishing trip with Dr. Edward "Eddie" Breck, and with guides Charles "the Strong" (Charlie Charlton of Milford, NS) and Del "the Stout" (Del Thomas of Milford, NS), one June in the early 1900s. All that has been extinguished. Today the business it is under new younger management and is renamed the Wilder Restaurant & General Store. It is highly rated by Trip Advisor, but having eaten their once we purchased coffee and made a pit stop (red door at the back).

.For miles afterwards, rank upon rank of pine trees and huge glacial erratics. Some telephone/electric light poles have to be planted in pots the soil is so sparse.

Excepting commercial vehicles, people travelling the outback are polite considering the fact that passing lanes are few.

This is Milton House almost ready to go.  Albert Bigelow Paine, (Mark Twain’s biographer), chronicled his first impression of the Milford House Lodge in his famous book The Tent Dwellers in the following way … "Then at last came a church, a scattering string of houses, a neat white hotel and the edge of the wilderness had been reached."  That has not changed.  Milford House describes itself as the provinces "Longest Running Family Oriented Wilderness Resort; Quiet Peaceful Lakeside Cabins for Rent. The Perfect Family Getaway; Canoing, Swimming, Fly Fishing, Hiking, Tennis, & Pet Friendly.

The Lodge has been destroyed by fire twice over the years but this time they plan a complete reopening in June. "One of the finer aspects of staying at Milford House is an incredible dining experience. For just $30.00 a day, we will include a 3 course dinner plus a full breakfast the next morning. We are well known for our wholesome home-cooked meals, utilizing locally selected produce, some of which is freshly picked from our very own gardens." This place would not exist without the financial support of American visitors.

My Grandmother K, who was a Stewart before marriage belonged to a Catholic Family caught up in the New Light Baptist revival.  Right-wing Baptists peopled her world at Bonny River, NB. This is a back-woods Baptist church.


Baptists believe in clear-cutting at home and abroad, excepting the urban United Baptists.


Once there were tent-dwellers. Now there are cyclists, motorcyclists and the rest of us detentes.

"I spy with my little eye, something that begins with 'N.'" We are riding down the slope of South Mountain, so my guess is North Mountain. Annapolis Royal lies in a valley between the two. The cross road is a major east-west highway connecting the Acadian shore with Halifax.

Annapolis Royal's high school serves a broader area since they have less than a thousand residents. The elementary school is at adjacent Granville Ferry, which now has a highway connection.

The remains of the British colonial Fort Ann are at left of Main Street. Annapolis Royal proper at right.

Right turn and we have a recommended eatery, but it is  a cafe with a limited menu.

This is market day, so arriving late we are forced to park several blocks away and walk to the waterfront. That lighthouse is another Nova Scotia fake!

For years an antique dealer has occupied this unheated rustic building.

Ruth always makes a grand and rapid entry. Since I am Boswell, I follow to record.

At first the weather is a bit cool and windy!

Photographs are not usually open to this much space since the market is crowded.

All photos are sequential.

These knitted animals held our attention.

Nova Scotians are not underfed.

Native Indian baskets are always offered here.

Perennial food favourites.

Here past laurels are posted. Fresh tea and coffee is for sale in the foreground.

Local craftspeople are seriously competitive.

Colourful and fun.

All local!

And the locals seem to enjoy this interaction as much as the patrons.

We have planned to go there.

A bit more than 5% alcohol by volume.

A great tea and coffee town.

Is it really summer? Yes, since the temperature has again surpassed that eighty degree barrier and the magnolia blossoms are dropping. We were promised a heritage garden day on Sunday and these were preview plants.

Maple syrup was on the table.

So were these wooden animals. That might be me in the background taking a photo?

Looking westward at the local pub. The servers were female. Wish we had decided to eat then! That evening, when male waiters took their place...

.Impossible to photograph everything! This is advertised as a "Trader's Market." Lunenburg's "Farmer's Market" is much more exclusive and pricey.

"Gourmet" means that those already vastly overweight should go away.

There is a venue near the waterfront for invited musical groups, but street musicians are commonplace.

As are charity pitches.

This does not pretend to be a farmer's market, but there are plenty of outlets.

The only criterion seems to be a demand for some hand-crafting whatever the product. Flea market material in aid of charities is usually installed in a nearby hall.

Only beer brewers are poorly represented here. Must be a South Shore affliction.

The hand-forged bit escapes me!

With noon past, the variety of products on sale is diminished.

Antiques are allowed as this is a trader's market.

Ruth admires knitted wares.

R makes her first purchase. She has been growing "Scotia" tomatoes from seeds but bought a container at 4 for $2 just to see how they might compare in maturation.

At the entry to the market she also picked up very fresh fiddleheads. All this went back to the auto. We had a cooler in the trunk.

This is the only retail outlet left that has an attraction for us. All the former gift shops are now closed or occupied by service industries. This day we decided to pass on the variety store and have another look at the market before closure at 1 pm.

We took the waterfront boardwalk instead of repeating our walk down Main Street.

Lots of families in town this Saturday.

Passing northward this walkway ends at the public wharf. That's the village of Granville Ferry in the distance.

Looking back toward Main Street from here we see the deck of Compose Restaurant which we have yet to try.

There are several picnic tables along the way.

There is less in the way of ship lifts here than in Lunenburg town.

We exit the boardwalk. This shot looks back on the entry way and looks westward.

The bandstand tent has closed down and the market is packing up. Back to the car with a couple of hours to spend before check in at 3 pm.

We had some notion of having look at the North Mountain Museum in Granville Ferry, but like all area attractions it was closed down. This is the view from a rural B&B where we are thinking of staying sometime in the future. The building with three chimneys is at Fort Ann.

Here's a telephoto of the Officer's Quarters within earthworks of the old fort.

Nowhere particular to go so we zero in on the only tidal power plant in North America. which is displaying an "open" flag. The Annapolis Royal Generating Station is a 20 MW tidal power station located on the Annapolis River. Opened in 1984, it was constructed by Nova Scotia Power Corporation, a provincial government Crown corporation then often used to socially benefit various areas in the province. The decision to build the facility was partly prompted by the promise of federal funding for this alternative energy project and a realization that the aging steel bridge connecting Annapolis Royal was at the end of its life.

The ground-floor of this building houses a seasonal tourist bureau.  A rock-filled dam now carries Trunk 1 across the river, as well as housing the power house and sluice gates. The blocking of water flow by this dam (to allow the a head of water to accumulate every six hours) has resulted in increased river bank erosion on both the upstream and downstream ends. The dam is also known as a trap for marine life. The Annapolis Tidal Generating Station Interpretive Centre on the second floor is open seasonally from May until October and has remarkable displays and great outlooks on the river.

We managed to while away an hour and fifteen minutes there and then decided to try for an early check in at Hillsdale House Inn, which is somewhat larger than this photo suggests. Built  as an inn in 1859 by Susan Forbes Foster it is the oldest continuing place of accommodation in town. Having vacationed at almost every B&B in Annapolis Royal, this is our favourite.

Ruth made the approach, leaving me to take photos. This place says, "The inn offers 13 well-appointed guest rooms combining a refreshing mix of Victorian charm, timeless hospitality and many of the comforts of modern lifestyle. Our goal is to weave the intimacy of a bed & breakfast inn with the privacy and conveniences of a small hotel; the best of both worlds." Note the "No Vacancy" sign. It is managed by a couple who were formerly involved in supervising a much larger hotel in Halifax, so this is probably recreational for them.

Located on Main Street it is is nearly across from the Catholic Church. The King George Inn next door, showing a red towner, has not been a competitor for a couple of years. It offers 8 room and is on the market for $500,000. In 2004, the U.N. designated Annapolis Royal as the most livable small town in the world but that hasn't boosted the population or tourism.


"The inn is lavishly furnished in period antiques with all the amenities of home including owners quarters and ample living and dining areas. Intricate moldings, oak/walnut woodwork, grand staircase, 12 ceilings, leaded glass windows, and ornate fireplace mantles exude the elegant atmosphere of a bygone era. Take a short stroll to the downtown waterfront, historic sites, fine dining, cafes, theatre, galleries and boutiques, or simply relax in the peaceful back garden." I owned one of these in Sussex, N.B. for 25 years and can tell you that life is not as peaceful for an owner as one might suppose.

In the opposite direction: The Queen Anne Inn. "The Queen Anne Inn was built in 1865 as a private residence for William Ritchie and Fanny Foster. In the Victorian style of the day, the Ritchie house  featured everything on a grand scale: the ceilings were tall, the staircase large, the mouldings heavy. William and Fanny had only one child, Norman, and they operated the home as a boarding house for many years. After all three passed on, the house had several owners until it fell vacant in the late 19th century."

In 1897 it became St. Andrew’s School, a private school attended by boys from across Canada. The school operated for about a decade and then it
was purchased and converted into the Queen Hotel and now as the Queen Anne Inn. The Queen Anne was fully restored in 1989 by a couple who also restored Ruth's parents residence "Solomon House" in Lunenburg. The house therefore appears today almost exactly as it did in 1865. They were not fully booked on this day.

As I have noted Hillsdale House has an ell and this annex, which has indoor connections with the main house. This attached "Carriage House" has three rooms all available at a rate ranging between $109 and $149. As persistent guests we are reminded that we like to travel to Annapolis Royal in May and receive a discount.  Our room  this time around was  technically in the pass through and accessed directly across a hallway from the back door, all on the flat of the land for a change.

This is Room #11 described as containing "a queen four-poster bed draped in soft cream fabric. Hardwood flooring with a Persian rug and a bright private en suite 4 pc bath complete this room. The room is air conditioned and has a flat panel TV, telephone and CD clock radio. Adjacent to the side entrance and parking lot provides easy ground level access to this room."

Hillsdale House Inn is also a wedding venue, and caters to private receptions, business meetings and events. Something of that sort was in progress when we arrived so this was a great out-of-the-way choice since the main building was overflowing with people. We took a two hour rest before walking out for a tour of the Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens, discounted because we were in residence at this Inn.

It has been a long day and you may prefer to take a break before accompanying us on our next walk. If so return to the index. If not click on the above photo or "Next."